Andalucia: Cordoba (by Michelle)
We started off the trip with a stop at an archaeological site where they've unearthed a small part of what was once the most elaborate palace in all of Europe, Medina Azahara. Most of it was looted and carted off for 100s of years (they've found some of its columns in Morocco), but in its day it was a true wonder. Today it is a nice sunny spot, with a good view and for those of you like me who find archaeology interesting, its a great story. Only one section has a roof and the rest is mostly the floors and columns, but it was still beautiful. We explored a little and I played the Indiana Jones theme song in my mind as Eva and I raced to catch the bus before it took off.
Then we were off to the Mezquita. I was bubbling with excitement and couldn't wait for the stu
dents to see it. I've been before, but it really doesn't disappoint (though my pictures have always been disappointing). "Mezquita" is the word for mosque. During the 8th-9th centuries Muslim Cordoba was the intellectual and cultural center of Europe. They built one of the most impressive mosques in the world. There were over a thousand columns and arches (today there are 800). It's stunning, but it is also a very strange place. You see, once the Christians retook Andalucia, they choose not to tear down the Mezquita (thank you!), but instead they built a church right in the middle of it!! The effect is somewhat disconcerting and a little sad when you consider what it might be otherwise. The story is that the local religious leaders contacted King Carlos V to ask permission to build the church inside of the mosque and like a distracted parent he said, "Ok, sure, whatever." Later when he saw what they had done he chided, "You've ruined something unique in all the world to build something that you could find anywhere." Even with the church inside it is a great spot and it was fun to see the students taking it all in.
Later we went through the winding streets of Cordoba. Beautiful. I taught some students that you have to be sure t
o peak in people's open doorways because often you can see inside to exquisite courtyards. (I figure if the door is open they want you to peek.) Their balconies, even in fall, are colorful. I took the following pictures of Eva in the same place just 3 years later. (and out-of-focus in both) I thought it was kind of fun
to see what 3 years does to a little girl. It sort of makes me sad to think how fast she is growing up! Could somebody slow down the clock a little?
We spent the evening wandering around the streets at night and we hunted down the Archaeology Museum which was a real find in an old mansion with a great courtyard
. We spent our last bit of energy trying to find a recommended Arabic restaurant, but gave up looking and ended up at a hole-in-the wall called Burger House. I can't wait to go to Cordoba again in December when David's family comes.
2 comments:
I have bad news for you. I currently live in Cordoba and I, too, wasted a night looking for this recommended Arabic restaurant. Well, it no longer exists. It's now called Burger Expres (one s!). Turns out you weren't so far off, but I doubt that makes you feel better--I didn't! I wrote about it here: http://miamired.wordpress.com/2007/11/08/cordoba-and-the-search-for-food/.
Thanks for the message on my blog. That wasn't bad news for me. The bad news would have been if we had been reading the map wrong and had missed a great restaurant. It was fun to hear that you experienced that same frustrating search. I wonder how many English speakers (with Lonely Planet hidden in backpack) end up at the Burger Expres out of frustration after looking for the other restaurant. I bet it is at least 5 a week.
The funny thing is that the food wasn't so bad and as we were leaving I noticed that it serves its food halal (which is the Arabic word for Muslim kosher) so we did end up with Arabic food afterall, though not quite what we were looking for. Frankly I was nervous because I noticed he didn't even have a sink or stove top in the little kitchen, but it was fine. The chicken kabob (which was chicken in a flour tortilla) was actually quite tasty and my son gobbled down the falafal so quickly that I didn't get a taste, but he said that it was great.
If you want an INCREDIBLE couscous and tajine, go back to Granada and try Restaurante Arrayanes just off Caldereria Nueva. Everything was great--the couscous, tagine, possibly the best hummus I've ever had (and I've lived in the Middle East.) Don't miss the mint lemonade.
Best of luck in Cordoba! Have you read Elizabeth Nash's book Seville Cordoba and Granada: a Cultural History? Its a fun read and made my visit to Andalucia richer.
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